Wednesday, October 04, 2006

Jon's Catwalk Report - Paris Ready to Wear S/S 2007 : Part I

Having learned the valuable lesson that instant messaging when combined with gay, alcoholic republican congressmen allows for all manner of saucy and pederastic hijinx, I find myself in a contemplative mood, eager to consider matters of deep importance. Thats right folks! Its time for another Catwalk report!

So lets get one thing straight. Women's fashion begins and ends in Paris. As of right now, no other city comes close to being as relevant in terms of determining what we should and - more importantly - want to wear. For all the chic sportswear, sublime tailoring and exquisite quality that New York, Milan and London have to offer, it is Paris that the world turns to for ideas.

One person who has been responsible for some of the most profound and challenging ideas in fashion for the past two decades is Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons. Here she offers us a wonderfully nuanced view of cut and construction, combining satin and tulle in geometric shapes that are at once aggresive and romantic.


Ms Kawakubo demands that we think about beauty in a less self interested and selfish way. Rather than perceiving fashion as simply a means to make ourselves more attractive to others or ourselves , she asks that we appreciate a shape or proportion on its own merits, to liberate ourselves from ego driven desires for a smaller waist or a bigger bust and to simply marvel at how a structured jacket dissolves into a cascade of gathered silk tulle.



What ultimately elevates a piece of fashion above and beyond a high end luxury commodity is its ability to convey an emotion, a thought, a sensibility. Ms Kawakubo understands this and we must learn from her example.


Perhaps the singularly most influential designer working at the moment is Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. As the pieces below demonstrate, Mr Ghesquiere undestands modernity and futurism better than anybody working in fashion. Rather than devolving into kitsch and pastiche (ala the Jetsons) Mr Ghesquiere offers us a real glimpse into what is to come.

What distinguishes these pieces from anything that is served up in New York or Milan is the fact that they are new. This isn't mid-90's science fiction reheated and served in a tinfoil covered casserol dish. This is the future baby, and we all want in.

Stay tuned for the next installment!!

2 comments:

cloudcontrol said...

bravo. I had a 'what you probably don't know is that particular shade of blue you are wearing is cerulean.' moment just then.

Evol Kween said...

That can only be read in the voice of Tim Gunn.